Natural Trim Hoof Care
Natural Trim Hoof Care
| Natural Trim Hoof Care We serve the entire New Jersey area, central to eastern Pennsylvania, and lower New York state. Please contact us sd we do extend outside this region. 973-876-4475 email: info@naturaltrimhoofcare.com |
| HOW TO RATE YOUR HORSE'S HOOFS I recently had the honor of meeting a Certified Master Saddler from Canada, and he told me he read Pete Ramey's latest book, but thought it was overwhelming for the average horse owner. He told me he wished there was a "simple" checklist for a healthy hoof. So I told him I would do my best to help him out. So here are the most important features, in my opinion, in no particular order(except the first!): |
THRUSH-Thrush is the biggest problem in trying to rehab a horse's hoof. Sulcus thrush is the equivalent to the
hoof having a toothache. You wouldn't eat on the side of your mouth with a toothache, and a horse won't step on
the back end of his hoof with thrush, which creates a shorter, choppier stride and slows down the healing process
of the back end of the hoof.
Examples:
hoof having a toothache. You wouldn't eat on the side of your mouth with a toothache, and a horse won't step on
the back end of his hoof with thrush, which creates a shorter, choppier stride and slows down the healing process
of the back end of the hoof.
Examples:
Notice the "crack" in the back of this frog and heel bulb. You should
not be able to insert a hoof pick into the crack. This is a major issue
and should be treated ASAP. I recommend White Lighting , followed
with triple anti-biotic cream and athlete's foot creme mixed together
and injected into the crack. For how long? Every day until the crack is
gone and you can no longer insert the hoof pick. See picture below
not be able to insert a hoof pick into the crack. This is a major issue
and should be treated ASAP. I recommend White Lighting , followed
with triple anti-biotic cream and athlete's foot creme mixed together
and injected into the crack. For how long? Every day until the crack is
gone and you can no longer insert the hoof pick. See picture below
HOOF WALLS- The wall should be growing straight down from the coronary band, no flares, chips or
cracks. The coronary band should be relaxed, and not have an indentation to it. There should not be noticeable
rings to the wall surface - it should be smooth.
cracks. The coronary band should be relaxed, and not have an indentation to it. There should not be noticeable
rings to the wall surface - it should be smooth.
NICE
FLARING
SQUARING OFF
RISING OF CORONARY BAND
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LEFT- This one is a little
tricky. It looks dry and
calloused, but I actually
was able to insert my pick
about a 1/4 inch into it.
Customer is working on it.
Click on photo for progress.
tricky. It looks dry and
calloused, but I actually
was able to insert my pick
about a 1/4 inch into it.
Customer is working on it.
Click on photo for progress.
SOLES- There is so much we can point out here, so let's just start with symmetrical.
The width should be the same or very close to the length. Here's a cheat sheet for you:
The width should be the same or very close to the length. Here's a cheat sheet for you:
CONCAVITY- Do NOT fall for the statement that concavity is over-rated. Without concavity, your hoof can
never heal! It is the first step of the healing process. After all if the P3 (coffin bone) isn't in the right position, how else will
everything behind it be able to heal? If your hoof lacks proper concavity, you need to look at the trim and/or diet. And watch
out for over-concavity, too! Remember, you want the bottom of the hoof (heels, frog , bars, sole) to make contact with the
ground.
never heal! It is the first step of the healing process. After all if the P3 (coffin bone) isn't in the right position, how else will
everything behind it be able to heal? If your hoof lacks proper concavity, you need to look at the trim and/or diet. And watch
out for over-concavity, too! Remember, you want the bottom of the hoof (heels, frog , bars, sole) to make contact with the
ground.
TOO MUCH CONCAVITY
UNACCEPTABLE
Photo courtesy of Easy Care boots
Click on photo to visit thier webpage
Click on photo to visit thier webpage
LITTLE TO NO CONCAVITY
DECENT CONCAVITY
BARS-Your bars should travel about half way down the frog (assuming you have a healthy frog). They SHOULD NOT BE
FOLDED OVER (see example). It is also said that bars that extend further than halfway (sometimes around the apex of frog)
are there for extra padding and support of the P3 bone. You may look at the way the horse is landing, it could be toe first.
And the answer to why it's toe first can run anywhere from back heel pain (from thrush, to atrophy, to underrun heels, to the
trim). The bars should be on the same plain as the back hoof wall and they should be straight without a curve to them.
FOLDED OVER (see example). It is also said that bars that extend further than halfway (sometimes around the apex of frog)
are there for extra padding and support of the P3 bone. You may look at the way the horse is landing, it could be toe first.
And the answer to why it's toe first can run anywhere from back heel pain (from thrush, to atrophy, to underrun heels, to the
trim). The bars should be on the same plain as the back hoof wall and they should be straight without a curve to them.
BAR EXTENDED AROUND
APEX OF FROG
APEX OF FROG
FOLDED OVER BARS
NOT BAD
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